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As it enters the gorge, the previously placid river writhes and roars for 17 kilometers through a series of rapids too dangerous for rafting (ask Richard Bangs!).
On the eastern bank above the surging river rise the imposing granite peaks of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountains (YuLongXueShan).
On the western bank tiny hamlets are scattered amidst a mix of pine forest and terraced fields on the gentler slopes of the Haba Mountains. "The Yangtze flows at 6,000 feet elevation where it enters the gorge, and as the peaks of the range which it pierces as with a giant's sword are more than 19,000 feet in height, the gorge is approximately 13,000 feet in depth. (Joseph Rock: NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC, August, 1926) The Yangtze enters the Gorge at a town called Qiaotou (Bridgehead).
Two hiking trails from Qiaotou follow the Yangze through the Gorge to Daju, a small farming community. From Daju buses go to Lijiang.
THE
TRAILS
Which to take? The
high trail or low?
The high trail is longer (approx 30 kms) but more varied with fantastic scenery -mainly mountain views: a challenge for most but well worth it. At a moderate pace, including rests, hiking the high trail should take 9-10 hours from Qiaotou to Walnut Garden. About 2 hours from Qiaotou there is a local farmhouse called Naxi Family Guesthouse. About six to seven hours from Qiaotou there is at Bendiwan village a guesthouse called Halfway. From Halfway it takes about 2 and a half hours to Walnut Garden. Between Halfway and Walnut Garden there are many beautiful waterfalls with clean drinkable water.The high trail joins the lower trail 3 kilometers from Walnut Garden where the trail crosses the Gorge's main waterfall in a large ravine (DaShengGou)
The lower trail was just a few years ago a simple mule rack. Now it has been widened into a rough road crossed by several waterfalls.Its first ten kilometers have recently been tarred. The road follows the Yangtze below it so there are more views of the river, and a stronger sense of being in a gorge than on the upper trail. It is also a shorter, less strenuous hike or bike ride. (23 kms to Walnut Garden) Allow 5-6 hours from Qiaotou to Walnut Garden.if walking.and two to three hours if cycling. At the 5th kilometer from Qiaotou there is an exhibition center about rafting the Yangtze river, with an art studio opposite. At the 10th kilometer, just before a tunnel in the road, there are some steps right down to water level where you can feel the full force of the Yangtze's power.
For those short on time or energy there are even taxis from Qiaotou into the gorge .as far as Walnut Garden. Price strictly negotiable depending on the number of passengers and your bargaining skills but expect to pay about 20 yuan a person plus the gorge entrance fee of 50 yuan.
Where to Start From? Daju or Qiaotou?
The 100 kilometers journey takes two hours on a sealed road. On a clear day there are dramatic views of the Jade Dragon Snow Mts as the bus climbs out of Lijiang. After the Car descends a long series of turns you will catch your first sight of the Yangtze flowing placidly before it narrows to roar through the Gorge at Qiaotou. There is an entrance gate at the beginning of the gorge trail. The ticket price is currently 50 yuan.
STARTING FROM DAJU
2 and half hour drive by Car from Lijiang to Daju,There are two guesthouses in Daju if you want to stay the night: Tiger Leaping Gorge Hotel and Snowflake Guesthouse. Many locals may urge you to take the new ferry but if you do you will miss some of the prettier scenery of Daju. The new ferry is at the bottom of a sharply zigzagging path. The climb up from the ferry on the other side is tough on a steep bare exposed narrow path with no shade in summer. The walk to the old ferry is very picturesque and should not be missed. The ferry is more reliable and the climb up the opposite bank less steep and much safer.
After crossing the rive from the new ferry the path continues through the fields and house of the local Naxi people before joining the road to Walnut Garden. There is a ticket office just before Walnut Garden. Two minutes walk beyond Woody's Guesthouse is Sean's Spring Guesthouse. It is a 40 minute walk from Walnut Garden to the start of the high trail.
